The hinged-stiff rig is a presentation that seems to be used more than any other at the moment and it’s no wonder why. It continues to trip up the country’s biggest carp year after year and offer you a very tangle free and effective rig.
I tie mine a little different than most people using a soft boom section and a 2-2.5 inch hook section. It looks a bit crude on the bank, but if you stick it in the water and look at it from a carps point of view, to them it looks like a bait on the deck, and over a scattering of boilies it doesn’t look out of place at all due to the loose feed being at all different levels – some being caught up in weed etc. Also there is a lot of bream in the lake I’m fishing so if I was to use a bottom bait or a small hook section I would be paranoid that they would be moving the hook around on the lake bed and blunting my hook point. The 2.5 inch hook section will eliminate that.
To tie the rig I need:
12-15 inches of Atomic Jelle Wyre
Size 5 Atomic Chodda Hook
Size 11 Ring Swivel
7 inches of Chod Filament
3.7mm rig ring
Jag Sharpening Kit
First of all, I take the section of braid and tie a 3-turn grinner knot to the big eye of the ring swivel, making sure you moisten down the knot properly and pull it down softly due to the coating on the braid being soft and not wanting to break it.
At the other end of the boom section, I tie a figure of eight loop knot. This is for a couple of reasons. I fish two different lead set ups in my angling, one is a standard helicopter set up where I would just loop to loop the boom section onto the swivel on the leadcore and the other is a quick change swivel facilitated inside a lead clip and a long length of heavy sinking tubing. A figure of eight loop allows me to use it on both set ups so I can have a few spare booms tied up in my rig box and not have to worry about what lead setup I’m using on the day.
After that is done the boom section is complete. They’re quick and easy to tie and last you a long time as well. Next part to tie up is the hook section. Firstly I take a lot longer length of chod filament than I actually need because it just makes tying the whole lot easier. I start off by passing one end of the filament through the eye of the hook which will later on become the D. I them commence tying an 8 turn knotless knot whipping down the hook. I prefer a longer knotless knot because it means that the bait will sit further down the shank of the hook and hides the hook a lot better I believe.
Once doing the eight turns I simply push the tag through the back of the eye on the hook and that’s the knotless knot complete. I just slip on a large rig ring and poke it back through the back of the eye on the hook to form the D. Next, you have to cut the bit of filament to length and then blob the tag with a lighter to stop it pulling back through the eye of the hook on the cast. Be careful when blobbing the tag, make sure you cover the knot and the hook section as not to damage it with a lighter.
Before I tied the hook section to the boom section I sharpen my hook. I do this know so that I haven’t got any unnecessary clutter bouncing around while I’m honing my hook point in. I like to give the hook around 3 strokes on each face of the hook with a Jag Max File. This just sharpens the straight point up a little bit more and gives me more confidence of hooking a carp out in the lake.
The last knot to be formed is the connection between the ring swivel on the boom section and the hook section. To join the two together I use a 2 turn tucked blood knot. Due to the chod filament being very thick and stiff you can get away with less turns on the filament and it creates a nice, small, neat knot. The finished length of the hook section should be around 2-2.5 inches but it’s a personal thing really.
Once the hook section is connected to the boom section I set about attaching my pop-up of choice. CC Moore have a great range of hook baits to choose from but in recent months I have been using a Pacific Tuna corkball pop-up over a scattering of Pacific Tuna bottom baits.